Reunion Island Travel Guide: France's Volcanic Paradise in the Indian Ocean
This French territory in the Indian Ocean packs active volcanoes, coral reefs, and some of the world's most dramatic landscapes into an island smaller than Rhode Island. I discovered France's best-kept tropical secret 9,000 kilometers from Paris.
The helicopter pilot shouted over the rotor noise, pointing toward what looked like the surface of Mars below us. "Piton de la Fournaise erupted three weeks ago," he said, as we flew over solidified lava flows that stretched like black rivers toward the ocean. This was my first glimpse of Reunion Island—France's volcanic department floating in the Indian Ocean, where you can sip proper French wine while watching active lava flows.
I'll admit I knew almost nothing about this place before my editor assigned me the story. Most people confuse it with Mauritius (its neighbor) or assume it's some remote French territory with little to offer. Wrong on both counts. Reunion Island delivers the dramatic landscapes of Hawaii with French infrastructure, Creole culture, and cuisine that makes you rethink everything you know about island food.
What struck me most during my three weeks here wasn't just the otherworldly scenery—though flying over the Mafate cirque felt like discovering a lost world—but how this island has managed to remain authentically French while developing its own distinct identity. The locals speak French with a Creole lilt, the supermarkets stock both baguettes and tropical fruits I'd never heard of, and you can hike through cloud forests in the morning and snorkel coral reefs in the afternoon.
Reunion Island isn't trying to be the Maldives or Bali. It's something entirely different: a place where French sophistication meets volcanic drama, where Michelin-starred chefs work alongside street vendors serving carry (the local curry), and where every turn in the mountain roads reveals landscapes that don't seem possible on such a small island.
Where to Eat in Reunion Island
Reunion's food scene reflects its complex cultural heritage—French technique meets Indian spices, Chinese influences, and African traditions. I ate better here than I have in many European capitals.
L'Épicurien in Saint-Denis serves refined Creole cuisine that would impress diners in Paris. Chef Fabrice transforms local ingredients like chouchou (christophine) and rougail into elegant presentations. The duck rougail with lentils du Cilaos is extraordinary—around €35 per person for the tasting menu. Chez Loulou on the waterfront in Saint-Paul perfects the art of simple, fresh seafood. Their grilled dorado with Creole sauce and the catch-of-the-day served with rice and beans runs about €18-22 per plate. Arrive before sunset for the best tables.
Le Saint-Hubert in Hell-Bourg (yes, that's the actual town name) occupies a restored Creole house and specializes in game dishes. Try the wild boar carry or the deer rougail—around €25 per person. Villa Delisle in Saint-Pierre offers the island's most romantic dining, with tables overlooking the ocean and a menu that changes based on the daily market. Their seafood curry with local vegetables costs around €28.
Don't miss the street food scene in Saint-Denis's covered market on Rue Maréchal Leclerc. The samoussas here are legendary—crispy triangles stuffed with everything from traditional vegetables to local fish. Three pieces cost about €2, and they're perfect for breakfast with strong Bourbon coffee.
Where to Stay in Reunion Island
Reunion's accommodation ranges from mountain refuges to luxury beach resorts, though the sweet spot lies in the charming Creole guesthouses scattered around the island.
Budget (under €40/night): Auberge de Jeunesse de Hell-Bourg sits in the heart of the Salazie cirque, surrounded by waterfalls and hiking trails. The rooms are basic but clean, and the location can't be beat for exploring the mountains. Book the dorm beds—they're €15 per night and you'll meet fellow hikers.
Mid-range (€60–120/night): Villa Créole in Saint-Gilles-les-Bains captures the island's architectural charm with wraparound verandas, wooden shutters, and gardens filled with tropical plants. The owners serve excellent petit déjeuner with local jams and fresh fruit. It's a 10-minute walk to the beach and close to the best restaurants.
Splurge (€200+/night): Hotel Manapany on the southwestern coast redefines luxury in the Indian Ocean. Each suite has a private terrace overlooking the ocean, and their spa uses local volcanic stones for treatments. The infinity pool seems to merge with the horizon, and the restaurant sources ingredients from their own garden.
Top Things to Do in Reunion Island
Reunion packs an impossible variety of experiences into 2,500 square kilometers. I spent three weeks here and barely scratched the surface.
Piton de la Fournaise remains one of the world's most active and accessible volcanoes. The hike to the rim takes about 4 hours round-trip from Pas de Bellecombe, crossing lunar landscapes that feel like another planet. Time your visit right (check eruption forecasts) and you might see actual lava flows. The Three Cirques—Mafate, Salazie, and Cilaos—offer some of the most spectacular hiking in the world. Mafate can only be reached on foot or by helicopter, making it feel like a secret mountain kingdom.
Plage de Grande Anse provides the island's best swimming, protected by coral reefs and blessed with soft sand. The neighboring Kelonia Sea Turtle Observatory rehabilitates injured sea turtles and offers fascinating insights into marine conservation. Hell-Bourg, classified as one of France's most beautiful villages, preserves 19th-century Creole architecture in a setting of waterfalls and mountains.
Here's what most tourists miss: Le Maïdo at sunrise. This viewpoint at 2,190 meters offers panoramic views over the entire island and neighboring Mauritius on clear mornings. Arrive by 6 AM, bring warm clothes, and prepare for one of the most spectacular sunrises of your life. The road up takes about 45 minutes from Saint-Paul.
Getting There & Getting Around
How to arrive: Roland Garros Airport (RUN) in Saint-Denis receives flights from Paris (11 hours direct with Air France or Air Austral), Mauritius (45 minutes), and several Indian Ocean destinations. Most international visitors connect through Paris or Mauritius. Air Austral offers the most convenient schedules.
Getting around locally: Rent a car—it's essential for exploring the island properly. Europcar and Hertz have offices at the airport, with daily rates around €35-50. The coastal road (Route Nationale) circles most of the island, while mountain roads lead to the cirques. Public buses (Car Jaune network) connect major towns for €2-4 per journey, but they're slow and infrequent to remote areas.
Local currency: Euro (EUR). Current exchange rate hovers around 1 EUR = 1.10 USD. Credit cards work everywhere, but carry cash for markets, small restaurants, and mountain refuges. ATMs are common in towns but scarce in remote areas.
Average daily budget: Budget travelers can manage on €50-60 daily (guesthouse, local restaurants, public transport). Mid-range comfort runs €100-130 (nice hotel, car rental, good restaurants). Luxury experiences start around €200+ daily (resort stays, helicopter tours, fine dining).
Safety tips: Mountain weather changes rapidly—always carry warm, waterproof clothing for high-altitude hikes. The ocean has strong currents and sharks; swim only at designated beaches with lifeguards. Cyclone season (December-April) can disrupt travel plans, so consider travel insurance.
📅 Best Time to Visit Reunion Island
Best Time to Visit Reunion Island
Peak Season
May through October brings dry, pleasant weather with temperatures around 20-25°C in the mountains and 25-28°C at sea level. This is winter in the Southern Hemisphere, making it perfect for hiking and outdoor activities. Expect crowds at popular attractions and higher accommodation prices. The trade winds keep things comfortable, but book everything well in advance.
Shoulder Season (Recommended)
April and November offer the best balance of good weather, fewer crowds, and reasonable prices. April particularly shines—the cyclone risk is minimal, temperatures are warm but not oppressive, and the waterfalls run full from the rainy season. November brings the first rains but also dramatic cloud formations perfect for photography.
Avoid
December through March is cyclone season, bringing heavy rains, high humidity, and potential travel disruptions. While the island looks incredibly lush and waterfalls are at their most spectacular, hiking becomes difficult or dangerous, and some mountain roads close. That said, if you don't mind rain and want to see the island at its most dramatic, February offers fewer tourists and lower prices.
On my last morning in Reunion Island, I stood on the rim of Piton de la Fournaise as the sun rose over the Indian Ocean, thinking about how this place had completely rewritten my understanding of what a French territory could be. This isn't just France with palm trees—it's a unique fusion that exists nowhere else on earth.
What Reunion gave me was perspective. In a world where so many destinations feel manufactured for tourists, this island remains stubbornly authentic. It's challenging—the mountains will test your endurance, the Creole language will humble your French, and the volcanic landscapes will make you feel very small. But that's exactly why you should go. Some places change you, and Reunion Island is definitely one of them.
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Elena has called five different countries home and writes about slow travel, local culture, and finding magic in everyday places. She is currently based in Lisbon.